Desmond Murray IG @desmondmurrayphotography
How did your journey into photography begin? Was it an instant passion or a gradual discovery?
Primarily, I’m a hairdresser. After leaving Vidal Sassoon, I decided to do session hair. However, I used to do testing, and unfortunately, I did not get the results I wanted. In those days, it was film, so you had to wait a week for the pictures to come back. I decided to buy a camera and do it myself, and the images were out of focus and overexposed. I wasn't very good at it. A month later, I did a test with two photographers in the same studio in the Isle of Dogs. I asked them both whether I could do a trade—I'd do their hair for free in exchange for photography experience. I assisted them for two years. Their names were Max Bradley and Paul Pannack. Max used to shoot for editorial magazines such as ID, Marie Claire, and Vogue; he taught me the editorial side of photography, and his philosophy was that one light can do everything. Paul was very technical and taught me everything about cameras, darkroom processing, etc. So, in essence, the basis of my photography came from both of them. In summary, all I wanted to do was create a really good editorial hairdressing book.
What draws you to portrait photography, and how do you capture the essence of your subjects?
I suppose having a hairdressing background, portrait photography was my instant go-to. However, the main focus is to capture the hair. I try to get to know the model as much as possible before we shoot and also create a great atmosphere in the studio with awesome music.
How do you approach styling and lighting in your vibrant portrait shoots?
Lighting, for me, is the essence of my imagery. I always work from a mood board, which gives me an underlying feel for the concept, and then I make it my own.
What techniques do you use to make your subjects feel comfortable and confident in front of the camera?
Depending on the subject, if they’re very confident, I’ll let them do what they do best. If not, I use props and talk them through it. Sometimes I work with them in front of a mirror and go through some poses.
Which photographers or artists inspire your work, and how have they influenced your style?
Nick Knight, Rankin, and David Bailey.
How does living in England influence your creative vision and the themes you explore?
Living in London plays a major part in my creativity regarding both hair and photography. I’m influenced by what’s happening on the streets, in clubs, bars, and also in the hair and fashion world.
Can you share a memorable experience you've had while photographing someone?
I shot an avant-garde collection for the British Hairdressing Awards in black and white. I wanted the whites to look white and the blacks to look black, with no gray tones, shot against a white background. However, I needed the model to pose nude, and I wanted her body painted. I knew a model from an agency, and she volunteered to model without clothes. The test went very well, and I was happy with the results. However, the challenge was getting other models to model without clothes. Luckily, the model I had done the test with worked for an agency, and all the other models wanted to shoot that connection with me.
What advice would you give to aspiring female photographers looking to break into the field?
The advice I would give to anyone wanting to get into the photography industry is to find a photographer who inspires them and try to assist them.
How do you keep your creativity flowing? Are there particular activities or experiences that help inspire you?
I always try to take myself out of my comfort zone. I learn new techniques, try new cameras, work with other photographers, use the latest software, and last but not least, keep up to date with my techniques.
Hair/Photo - Desmond Murray
Makeup - Jo Sugar
Models - Named Agency
